Local guidePlanning your proposal in Èze: a local's guide
Èze is all climbs and corners, which is exactly why a surprise works so well here. This is how I plan around the steps, the closing times and the celebration.
Jardin Exotique, on the old fortress
The garden sits on the site of the medieval fortress, 429 m above the sea, and on clear days the view reaches the Esterel and the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. It carries the "Jardin remarquable" label, and a newer Zen area with a waterfall is a quieter corner.
Village lanes and the church
The lanes are free and open at any hour, which makes them my answer when the garden is closed. Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption, built between 1764 and 1778, gives a beautiful ochre backdrop just below the top. Everything is stone steps and slopes, so flat shoes help. I scout an archway in advance and wait there like any other visitor.
The Nietzsche path
For adventurous couples, the Nietzsche path climbs 2.1 km and about 400 m from Èze Bord de Mer station to the village. Allow about an hour. Local tradition says Nietzsche worked on Thus Spoke Zarathustra while walking it in 1883–84. Hiking shoes are advised and so I'd suggest it for the walk up and a taxi or bus back down.
Fort de la Revère
Higher up, in the Grande Corniche park, the fort stands at 696 m. It was built between 1879 and 1885, and there's an orientation table and free parking. On foot from the village it's about three hours there and back, so I treat it as a car-only spot. It's wide open and far from the village bustle.
Celebrating at La Chèvre d'Or
Les Remparts, the terrace at La Chèvre d'Or, needs a reservation, either at the hotel's restaurant or at the hotel itself, and it is best to confirm with the hotel. The dress code is smart casual, with no swimwear or flip-flops. Fun detail: Walt Disney encouraged turning the château into a hotel in 1956.